Chapter 134 Golmud
Chapter 134 Golmud
About 150 kilometers down the Kunlun Pass, you'll reach Golmud City, marking the end of your Qinghai-Tibet Highway journey. If driving the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, traversing mountains and ridges, is a test of driving skill, then the Qinghai-Tibet Highway is a long, cold, oxygen-deprived journey, and a lonely, deserted world.
The successful application of Hoh Xil for World Heritage status has undoubtedly added a new highlight to the Qinghai-Tibet Highway. Driving this plateau highway offers the opportunity to experience close encounters with rare animals. You might even spot a Tibetan antelope, but we must protect this habitat and safeguard our ecological environment.
The promise made at the foot of Kunlun Mountain to go to Golmud and realize the dream.
Golmud is located in the central and western part of Qinghai Province and the heart of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. It is a city with great charm and distinctive characteristics.
Golmud is a major transportation hub, crisscrossed by a network of roads and railways. The Qinghai-Tibet Highway, the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, and the Dunhuang-Golmud Highway traverse the city, connecting it like a blood vessel. Vehicles shuttle through it day and night, transporting goods and travelers. This not only fuels the local economy, allowing resources to "go global" and tourists to "enter," but also serves as a crucial link between Tibet and the mainland, holding immense strategic significance.
The natural scenery is truly exceptional. The Kunlun Mountains stretch across the southern side, dotted with snow-capped peaks and winding white glaciers like silver dragons. Their peaks shimmer with a holy light in the sunlight, creating a magnificent spectacle. The Golmud Salt Lake is like a mirror of the earth. On clear days, the crystal-clear brine reflects the azure white clouds, and the salt crystals are a myriad of strange shapes. Wandering among them is like stepping into a dreamland, earning its name, "Mirror of the Sky," well-deserved.
Diverse cultures converge here. Han, Tibetan, Mongolian, Hui, and other ethnic groups coexist harmoniously. Tibetan prayer flags flutter in the streets, yurts are scattered across the landscape, and mosque domes gleam with golden light. During traditional festivals, people of all ethnic groups celebrate in their splendour. The Guozhuang dance at the Tibetan New Year is a vibrant and unrestrained event, while the Mongolian Nadam Festival is a bustling spectacle. The interweaving and collision of diverse folk customs creates a vibrant fusion of cultures.
The culinary culture is unique and flavorful. Hand-pulled lamb is tender and free of mutton flavor, and melts in your mouth when dipped in pepper and salt. Highland barley stuffed dough is smooth and chewy, and the hot and sour broth stimulates the taste buds. There are also Tibetan delicacies like butter tea and tsampa, blending the aroma of milk, tea, and grains to nourish the body and mind. Every bite is a condensed reflection of Golmud's local customs and culture.
Golmud, a city favored by nature and nurtured by culture, is attracting countless yearning visitors with its unique charm to explore the endless charm of the secret realm of the plateau.
Finally, I've waited for you. Golmud is right before our eyes. This low sigh, woven with the wind and dust of the journey and filled with eager anticipation, drifted from the driver's seat of the RV and into everyone's ears. Li Fugui's hands unconsciously tightened on the steering wheel, his knuckles turning slightly white from the effort, and the speedometer needle quietly shifted a few notches to the right. Beside him, Sister Xiao Tao could no longer contain herself. She leaned forward, her forehead almost touching the windshield, her gaze fixed on the gradually clearing city outline ahead, a smile threatening to overflow.
In the back seat of the RV, Zhang Tingjian and Zhang Nan, the old partners, lost their usual composure. Zhang Tingjian frequently pushed his glasses up, as if to erase the haze between the lenses and reality, just to see Golmud's initial appearance more clearly. Zhang Nan crossed his arms, but the constant tapping of his elbows betrayed the turmoil in his heart. From time to time, he whispered to Zhang Tingjian, his tone revealing his unconcealed joy.
Li Fugui stepped on the accelerator, and the RV sped down the road like a wild horse. Sister Tao sat in the passenger seat, her eyes fixed on the road, muttering, "Finally, I've found you! Golmud is right before our eyes." Her cheeks flushed with excitement, and her hands unconsciously clenched the corners of her clothes. Li Fugui grinned, "Don't worry, it can't get away. Let's just dive into its arms."
Zhang Tingjian and Zhang Nan sat in the back seat, their heads pressed against the windows, greedily gazing at the scenery outside. Li Fugui's glasses slid up and down his nose, muttering, "This scenery is worth it! It's a thousand times better than looking at a picture album." Zhang Nan nodded rapidly, snapping a few photos now and then, the camera shutter clicking.
In the pickup truck behind, Zhangbei's Xiaoxing was full of energy, steering with one hand while petting Po, the panda dog, at her feet with the other. Po's barking soundtracked the journey. Xiaoxing shouted at the top of her lungs, "Tanggula Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, here I come!" Her voice was carried away by the wind, dissipating into the vast expanse of space.
Haha, the young couple following behind are becoming happier and happier. Zhang Bei and Xiao Xing are as energetic as a little sun.
Zhang Bei's neatly cropped hair bounced wildly as the car jolted along. She controlled the steering wheel with one hand, the other raised high, honking the horn in a playful greeting to the RV in front. Po, the panda dog at her feet, perhaps infected by the cheerful atmosphere, perched on the passenger seat, his front paws resting on the window rim, his black bean-shaped eyes wide open, his pink tongue lolling out as he barked cheerfully. His cries were ripped apart by the whistling wind and scattered across the vast expanse of sky and earth.
"I'm here! Tanggula Mountains! Kunlun Mountains!" Xiao Xing shouted at the top of her lungs, her voice carried by the strong wind as she rushed towards the towering mountain ranges in the distance. The mountains rose and fell like the earth's ridges, their white snow-capped peaks gleaming in the sunlight like silver dust sprinkled by a god, exuding holiness and majesty. The brown mountains exposed their mottled texture, their wrinkles filled with stories etched by time, telling of the changes of millions of years. The winding mountain road twisted like a ribbon, guiding them step by step into this magnificent landscape.
As we drew closer to Golmud, the scenery along the road seemed enchanted, becoming increasingly vibrant. First, there were sparse, drought-resistant sea buckthorn bushes, their jagged, twisted branches bearing clusters of shrunken yet resilient red berries, a welcome gift from the wilderness. Closer, herds of yaks stalked the withered grass, their thick, long fur drooping to the ground, their curved horns. Occasionally, they glanced up, their eyes carefree yet wild. The sky was clear, almost transparent, and large, suspended clouds cast dappled shadows, creating a shimmering, dreamlike scene of light and darkness.
The RV slowly pulled into downtown Golmud, where modern architecture mingled with Western charm. Streetside shop signs were written in both Chinese and Tibetan, and colorful banners rustled in the wind, their mysterious runes whispering ancient blessings. Li Fugui found a spacious parking lot and parked the RV. The group filed out. The moment they touched down, they felt a connection to Golmud's local atmosphere, their hearts and lungs filled with the novelty of this unfamiliar land. Sister Tao took a deep breath, the rich aroma of cumin and butter tea permeating her nostrils, making her taste buds leap with delight!
Zhang Tingjian had already set up his camera, its telephoto lens eagerly capturing the subtle details of the rustling prayer wheels in the hands of elderly people on the street, the innocent smiles on the rosy faces of children, and the sleek curves and shimmering golden glow of the distant mosque dome. Zhang Nan, on the other hand, pulled Li Fugui aside to inquire about local delicacies, his eyes sparkling as he clung to authentic hand-pulled lamb and highland barley stuffed dough, his eagerness drawing laughter from everyone.
From afar, the exotic charm of Golmud's Tibetan city enveloped us. Bilingual shop signs lined the streets, colorful banners fluttered, and mysterious runes whispered. Everyone found a place to eat. As soon as Sister Tao entered, she smiled and exclaimed, "Oh, this smell is so comforting!" The aroma of cumin and butter tea lingered in the air, tempting our appetite.
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